Read Online Mud and Stars: Travels in Russia with Pushkin, Tolstoy, and Other Geniuses of the Golden Age By Sara Wheeler
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Ebook About With the writers of the golden age as her guides—Pushkin, Tolstoy, Gogol, and Turgenev, among others—Sara Wheeler searches for a Russia not in the news, traveling from rinsed northwestern beet fields and the Far Eastern Arctic tundra to the cauldron of nationalities, religions, and languages in the Caucasus. Bypassing major cities as much as possible, she goes instead to the places associated with the country’s literary masters. Wheeler weaves these writers’ lives and works around their historical homes, giving us rich portraits of the many diverse Russias from which these writers spoke. Illustrated with both historical images and contemporary snapshots of the people and places that shaped her journey, Mud and Stars gives us timely, witty, and deeply personal insights into Russia, then and now.One of Smithsonian’s Ten Best Travel Books of the YearBook Mud and Stars: Travels in Russia with Pushkin, Tolstoy, and Other Geniuses of the Golden Age Review :
“Have you been to Pskov?”Thanks to a former fellow Amazon reviewer, I was introduced to Sara Wheeler’s latest – and obviously very underappreciated, based on the number of Amazon reviews – work. I’ve only read one other book by her, “Travels in a Thin Country,” concerning her extensive tour of Chile, literally from one end to the other. I was most impressed. I also know she has written about the Polar Regions, Greece (Evia) and the United States, books that I may now also decide to read.The subject of this book pressed my “hot button.” Travels in the vastness of Russia, with a particular focus on its writers from the “Golden Age.” Wheeler and I have both been to Turgenev’s “forest-buried” estate of Spasskoye-Lutovinovo. When I was there it was in a different country – sorta – the Soviet Union. The year was 1990. What I remember most – in a country in which, as Wheeler reports Colin Thubron saying, no one smiles – was the enthusiasm of the guide. She was no “Oblomov,” a term I was unaware of, until reading Wheeler’s work. Those were the days of Intourist; Turgenev’s home took some effort to reach. No Americans drove their own cars there, particular not with two small children. My main connection with Turgenev at the time was seeing his place name on the table at George Sand’s home in Nohant; he had once been a guest there. The guide at Spasskoye-Lutovinovo spoke excellent English and delighted in being able to use it. I still remember the poverty of her salary, as reflected in those shabby two-inch heels, which still denoted she was not “a peasant.” Diversions like us, she would have loved to have talked to forever – alas, beloved Intourist wanted us further down the road, at a hotel that evening. Change of plans was not permitted.In the “new and improved” Russia, one is now able to travel much more freely, and Wheeler did, going to other “Golden Age” writers’ homes that were once closed to foreigners. She first goes to Pushkin’s Trigorskoye estate, not that far from the border with Latvia. Next she tracks down the haunts of Dostoyevsky – the only one of the “Golden Age” writers not born into landed gentry. After that is Mikhail Lermontov and his experiences (including death) in the Caucasus. Wheeler convinced me that I need to see the spa town of Pyatigorsk, as well as read his “A Hero for Our Times.” Gogol follows (Wheeler informs my pronunciation with “GAW-guhl”). And then Chekhov, and she compares his journey across Russia in 1890, to the remote Sakhalin island penal colony, to her own journey on the Trans-Siberian. Good stuff. Naturally the master himself, Tolstoy, and his estate at Yasnaya Polyana, and his less than idealistic personal life, receive its own chapter.“The Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk”? I had never heard of Nikolai Leskov, and he too receives an entire chapter, curmudgeon that he was, which is saying something in a country where no one smiles. Another newbie, at least for me, was Ivan Goncharov, his novel “Oblomov,” and the eponymous concept that bears the novel’s name, the ultimate in fatalism.Wheeler also states: “I was searching for a Russia not in the daily news – A Russia of common humanity and daily struggles.” She undertook to learn Russian, and complains how much greater are the difficulties of learning a language when one has aged. I sure know the feeling. The subject quote is what she said in Russian when she meant to ask the question that follows. She stayed in rough B&Bs, which she says in some cases was only one “B.” There was no breakfast. And she covers Russian food in general.There was so much good information in this account, including passages from the “Golden Age” writers, that I might have considered it for my special rating of 6-stars. Regrettably, I can only give it four. I was very frustrated that she did not provide a better explanation for the time periods and length of her travels. Did she go to Russia one time or twenty? The dates are quite important and she provides none. For example, my experience at Turgenev’s home in 1990 had to be much different than hers… but when was hers? And then there is the matter of learning Russian. In a chapter at the end of the book, when she was in the Far East, she states that she did not speak a word of Russian, so when was that? She also jumped around, with passages on the food and a seedy area of London where poor Russians lived.A most informative and inspiring read, which should have been better organized. 4-stars. Quite a fine travel book for lit-lovers. Ms. Wheeler deftly handles the wonderful stories of Tolstoy without soft-pedaling his dreadful and often confused life - even then, he has nothing on Dostoevski’s far more glaring personal issues. On top of all that, I appreciate her grueling trip to the far east of Russia so she could recount Chekov’s more difficult trip to write about the awful prisons on the Sakhalin Islands which led to overdue reforms. There are plenty of others things to thank her for, but I’ll leave it at the sympathetic picture we got of everyday people in Russia. For all of their long, difficult history, it’s the average people who come across as a bit better than their past. Fascinating book of writers and the people who inspired them. (In fairness, I have to admit to loving a lot of these writers and some of their emigres in case that is not already obvious.) 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